You don’t need to travel to Iceland to see spectacular fjords … New Zealand has a Fiordland of its own.
Fiordland is a natural wonder you don’t need to traverse the globe to enjoy.
Fiordland National Park, on the untamed west coast of New Zealand’s South Island, is home to a collection of some of the world’s most beautiful fjords, carved by ancient glaciers some 10,000 years ago, their dramatic sheer cliffs plunging into pristine waters. We navigate five of the most stunning “sounds”, as they’re known in New Zealand - some of them only a few hours’ travel from main centres.
(Don’t be confused, New Zealand’s fjords have been named ‘sounds’, and New Zealand spelling favours fiord over fjord.)
Rudyard Kipling once described Milford Sound as the eighth wonder of the world, and this 16km long inlet at the northern end of Fiordland National Park, opening to the Tasman Sea, still does Mr Kipling proud. Māori discovered the fiord more than 1000 years ago, and its surrounding land was prized for the beautiful pounamu (greenstone) that was carved and used as sacred ornamentation. With dramatic mountains – Mitre Peak rises almost 1700m vertically from the sound’s inky waters – thundering waterfalls, forest-clad cliffs and a plethora of wildlife (bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, little blue penguins), it’s an unmissable stretch of perfection.
Milford is the only New Zealand fiord that can be accessed by car, and is a 4 to 5 hour drive from Queenstown and 2 hours from Te Anau. Take a day or overnight cruise, or guided kayak tour and or go scuba diving or fishing. The Milford Sound Discovery Centre and Underwater Observatory, at Harrison Cove (accessible by boat only), provides a fascinating insight, and the chance to observe the sound at a depth of 10m. A note: it rains – a lot – here: wet-weather gear is recommended so you can best experience the sounds (and the spray) from the waterfalls on the deck.
Sound of Silence
On a rainy day, Doubtful Sound (Patea) echoes with the splash of hundreds of waterfalls, tumbling down bush-clad cliffs, and when it’s fine, the sun sparkles off the gently rippling waters. It’s a giant compared to Milford – its three distinct arms stretch some 40km to the ocean – and is the deepest of New Zealand’s fiords, at 420m. Milford Sound will fit into one of these arms alone. To access Doubtful Sound, you need to cross Lake Manapouri before taking a coach trip along the vertiginous Wilmot Pass (670m above sea level). Once on the water, you are likely to be greeted by bottlenose dolphins, a resident pod whose spray turns into rainbows as they ride the bow wake.
Doubtful Sound tours start from Manapouri, which is two hours by road from Queenstown and 20 minutes from Te Anau. All up, the trip across Lake Manapouri, across Wilmot Pass and on the waters of the fiord, will clock in at about eight hours. You can experience the sound on a day or overnight cruise, kayak and scenic flight.
Dusky Sound/Tamatea is about as pristine as the 21st century comes: its geographical isolation has made it one of the most naturally intact stretches of New Zealand, a haven for vulnerable species and freshwater species. It’s rich in history, too: Māori hunted and fished here from the 15th century; James Cook and his crew spent a six-week sojourn in Dusky Sound in 1773. Today, as you enter the sound, you will be treated with an abundance of native wildlife – from dolphins to the occasional humpback whale – and some tours also offer tender links that allow visitors to walk along some of the world’s least trodden shorelines.
A trip to the southernmost fiords can’t be undertaken in a single day. The remoteness of these fiords necessitates longer travelling time, but it’s worth the effort. Cruise tours to Dusky Sound start at Manapouri, and follow the same route as the tours to Doubtful Sound, before venturing out into open sea and south to remote southern waters. Or you can do the hard yards and hike it there over 10 days.
Slightly north of Dusky Sound, Breaksea Sound is another hidden gem that can’t be visited in a day. Dotted with islands, this sound can be explored as part of longer trips that take in other remote fiords. It’s another spot where you’re likely to encounter dolphins, so keep your camera ready.
One novel way to explore Breaksea is via helicopter from Queenstown or Te Anau. Once there, you can climb on board a charter boat and cruise the fiord in style.
Into the Inlets
After an ignominious stint as the location of New Zealand’s first shore-based whaling station, Preservation Inlet (and its neighbour, Chalky Inlet) is now welcoming southern right whales back to its waters. Preservation – its Māori name, Rakituma, means “the threatening sky” – is the southernmost of the Fiordland National Park fiords, and was named by American whaling captain Eber Bunker in 1809.
The inlets can be visited as part of a boat tour that takes in the entire region. As with other southern fiord tours, these leave from Manapouri or Te Anau.
If you really want to disconnect, New Zealand’s Fiordland could be the perfect place to go – there’s no cell phone coverage in any of the fiords, but why would you want to SnapChat when you’re in the midst of such natural beauty?